Useful Information:

As Spring approaches in the UK, and especially if your dogs, like some of ours, try to dig up bulbs and plants when they have first been put in (knowing the area of garden you were just working in and taking interest in what has been going on - Amanda Dunckey.

Draft Dangerous Dogs Amendment Bill 2013

The Queen's Speech on May the 8th is reported to include the draft Dangerous Dogs (Amendment) Bill 2013.

On the 9th April the Government published the draft Dangerous Dogs (Amendment) Bill which aims to amend the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 (DDA), if passed this new legislation will affect dogs of all breeds/types.

Here is a detailed look through the Bill  from the Endangered Dogs Defence & Rescue.

To view the draft Bill in its entirety with government explanatory notes online (see below).

The main points of the Bill are:

 

1) Extension of section 3 of Dangerous Dogs Act:

Section three of the DDA, which applies to all breeds/types of dog, would be extended to apply to all places – to include private property e.g. within your home and garden. This extension would apply to England and Wales.

Section Three of the DDA currently creates a presumption that a dog is presumed to be dangerously out of control if there are grounds for reasonable apprehension that it will injure any person, whether or not it actually does so - with an aggravated offence being committed if the dog, whilst out of control, injures any person, regardless of the circumstances.

Offences where any injury has been caused are currently of strict liability; defences should be possible for dogs alleged to be ‘dangerously out of control’ e.g. when a dog is acting in self-defence - the planned changes do not address this at all.

The draft Bill would extend the law to make it a criminal offence for a dog to be “dangerously out of control” in any place. The definition of “dangerously out of control” remaining the same - when there are grounds for reasonable apprehension that the dog will injury any person whether or not a person is actually injured.

We do not support the extension of sec 3 to 'any' place.

The Bill also extends section three of the DDA with a new provision relating to assistance dogs, making it a criminal offence for a dog to be “dangerously out of control” when there are grounds for reasonable apprehension that the dog will injure any assistance dog, whether or not it actually does, if any injury is caused to an assistance dog whilst out of control an aggravated offence will have been committed.

An assistance dog is (defined by the Equality Act 2010 c173):

§  A dog which has been trained to guide a blind person

§  A dog which has been trained to assist a deaf person

§  A dog which has been trained by a prescribed charity to assist a disabled person who has a disability that consists of epilepsy or otherwise affects the person’s mobility, manual dexterity, physical co-ordination or ability to lift, carry or otherwise move everyday objects

§  A dog of a prescribed category which has been trained to assist a disabled person who has a disability of a prescribed kind (not listed above).

We do not believe that non-aggravated offences should be extended to assistance dogs - e.g. a dog barking at an assistance dog could result in criminal or civil proceedings under the Amendment.

1a) Householder cases:

An exemption has been created in relation to trespassers on private property inside a dwelling – if the householder defence is in operation then no offence under sec. 3 has been committed.

But its application is not clear from how this section is worded – it seems to be that the dog’s owner or carer must be themselves physically present, for example in your home, whilst a trespasser is actually entering the building – so if you have a burglar entering your house whilst you are in it and your dog injures them defending you, you might have a defence.

If you the dog’s owner is not at home whilst there is a break in on your home - there is no defence - you have to be present at the time of the incident!

Also your garden isn’t stated - so if your dog injures or causes apprehension to a trespasser i.e. an intruder on your private garden/private attached land/outbuildings you may have committed a criminal offence if you dog even barks at them.

In our opinion extending ‘dangerously out of control’ to private property will leave dogs and their responsible owners vulnerable to vexatious complaints, not properly protected from trespassers and intruders, with dog owners being subject to legal hearings and potentially criminalised when their dogs are just acting as dog do-not causing any harm or disturbing anyone - our dogs should be allowed to act as dogs do in our own homes.

2) Powers of entry and seizure:

Section1 (5) of the draft Bill extends the powers of entry and seizure – giving the right to enter private property and seize any dog which appears to be “dangerously out of control” without a warrant.

We do not support the extension of powers for the police or a local authority dog warden to enter private property or to seize a dog from private property e.g. our homes and enclosed gardens without a warrant, if the dog appears to be, or if it appears to have been 'dangerously out of control’.

3) Determination of ‘danger to public safety’:

When a dog is found guilty under sec 3 or sec 1 (prohibited types) the court can order a contingent destruction order as an alternative to a destruction order if satisfied that the dog would not constitute a ‘danger to public safety’. Once satisfied in the case of a prohibited type the court can order the dog is added to the Index of Exempted Dogs as an alternative to destruction.

The definition of what the court must consider has been given in the draft Bill as;

·         the character of the owner or keeper - whether this person is ‘fit and proper’

·         the temperament of the dog and its past behaviour

·         any other relevant circumstances

The definition of ‘any other relevant circumstances’ or a ‘fit and proper’ is not given and this will in our opinion be wide open to interpretation.

The same will also apply to section 4b applications before the court – where no legal aid is possible, hence as is currently the situation most cannot afford legal representation nor breed identification or behavioural assessment for the court to dispute 'type' and/or defend their dog if necessary.

This section of the amendment will apply to England, Scotland and Wales.

The notes to the draft Bill describe the Sandhu Judgement as ‘adverse’ – The Sandhu judgement was not in our opinion ‘adverse’. The High Court has examined and interpreted the DDA as it currently stands and confirmed that keeper is separate to owner – saving the lives of innocent dogs as the ruling has enabled exempted dogs to live with a nominated keeper if they are unable to stay with their registered owner.

In our opinion the draft Bill seeks now to destroy pet dogs by dictating to the court what they MUST consider when deciding whether to issue destruction order or CDO. Whether keepership will remain an option is unclear, but in our opinion this draft Bill is adverse and likely to lead to more deaths of innocent dogs that are no danger to anyone.

4) Civil Proceedings:

The draft Amendment will also amend the DDA to enable civil legal proceedings to be bought in respect of dogs under any enactment; this section is not clearly written and has not been given much coverage, nor did previous consultations ask for views on this, yet it would in our opinion have far reaching consequences unless legal aid were to be extended and given where destruction of a dog is at stake.

Legal aid is presently not available, therefore owners will not be able to properly defend themselves. It is unfair and unjust if a defence cannot be put to the courts as the owner cannot afford legal representation and expert assessment e.g. a behavioural report, for the courts – for example to demonstrate the temperament of their dog-just one requirement needed in order to avoid a death penalty for the dog.

If the current legislation is to be amended to allow for civil proceedings to be enacted under all sections then legal aid should be extended to cover civil proceedings.

Verdict:

We do not support the Amendments. Tragically, after so many years of failed abysmal legislation, these poorly drafted Amendments take what already does not work and make it staggeringly worse, the breed specific element is left to carry on causing mayhem, desperation and the countless deaths of innocent pet dogs, whilst nothing here will prevent dog bites or promote responsible dog ownership.

Further Information:

The draft Dangerous Dogs (Amendment) Bill 2013 with explanatory notes.

Canine Christmas Tips

Seasonal Advice

Christmas and the New Year is a time of joy and cheer for us and our families and is also often a time of stress, rushing about and pulling your hair out!

Here are some handy tips for you to help maintain your sanity and keep you and your dog happy and safe over the festive season.

Your Christmas Tree & Decorations:

Once a year we fill our rooms up with trees, dangling objects, lights and even hang food around in odd places. We know what is going on, but our dogs probably just think we have gone a bit nuts in the nicest of ways!

·         Electrics: Make sure you keep your tree lights and any other electrical decorations safely out of your dog’s reach-especially if your dog is inclined to investigate or chew through exposed electrical cord. Electrocution can easily be caused.

·         Trees: If you have a real tree, the needles which fall daily can become stuck in your dog’s paws and are also dangerous if eaten, vacuum daily and keep your dog (and other animals) away from them. Don't let your dog drink the tree water. Some dogs like to mark out against them (why else did human bring a tree indoors but to save going out in the cold?) so bear that in mind too!

·         Tree Decor: From a dogs point of view – the Christmas tree with its dangling goodies is pretty tempting and begging to be investigated, trees can easily topple over especially once weighed down with decorations and lights etc so try to secure the tree down so it does not fall over so easily if bumped into by your dog (or wagging tail). Trees do tend to look better by the window rather than being worn round the house by your enthusiastic dog!

Dogs can easily be caught up in tinsel and find hanging decorations particularly appealing and ripe for pulling off. Life will be a lot easier and safer if you limit your dog’s access to the area if you need to and don’t leave tree and dog unattended!

·         Plants: Many Christmas plants including Mistletoe, Holly, Pot Pourrie and Poinsettias are toxic, keep them out of your dog’s reach and seek immediate veterinary advice if you think your pet has ingested.

·         Decorations: Those which are edible (or not when they are ten years old) to humans, e.g. hanging chocolate tree decorations may be sniffed out by your dog with his amazing nose detection capabilities, so keep these away. Chocolate is just pure poison to your dog’s system, tinsel, tin foil, cling film etc can also be dangerous if swallowed and cause serious internal problems. Fairy lights look lovely; problems can arise when dogs get tangled up in any loose wires left lying around.

·         Spray snow - the type in the cans, is attractive on the insides of your windows, check your dog isn't interested in licking/scratching it off, chemicals=poisons.

·         Blu-tack and similar adhesives may cause drooling, vomiting and/or diarrhoea if eaten by your dog. Silica gel found in packaging can have the same affect-contact your vet for advice.

·         Plastic bags and balloons are also a hazard-keep them away from your dog.

·         Candles: If you like to use candles-do place where your dog, e.g. your dog’s waggy tail, will not accidentally knock over.

Christmas Presents:

·         Your goodies: Many dogs will be intrigued by the sudden appearance of wrapped boxes and who could blame them, so if you don’t want yours unwrapped by Santa’s little helper, keep them boxes hidden!

·         Wrappings, trimmings etc can be very dangerous if chewed or swallowed, so keep safely away when not in use & bin after.

·         Doggie presents: Make sure your dog’s own Christmas present(s) are ’dog proof’ – suitable for your dog, robust enough and safe for use.

Christmas Day can in some households seem like a day gone mad from a dog's view, then there is the excitement of the present opening, the paper, the noise, all those socks too!

If you have more than one dog and are giving out a present to each dog bear in mind how each dog is going to react with their new possession around the other dogs, sharing might be right out the window to begin with. Give your dog space and maintain control - it's not like you’re too busy right? You are after all supermom and superdad - dogs need your help too.

Festive Food, more food, did I mention there's more food and treats:

Some of the foods we love to fill up on over Christmas are actually toxic for our dogs. It can be a tough job to keep a watch on your dog even with the extra set of eyes you have developed in the back of your head, but you'll need to be one step ahead.

Cooked foods left on top of the oven are very tempting to your dog and many a time the whole lot has been reached and knocked back in one or two gulps; bones, trimmings, stuffing the lot-this can lead to an expensive out-of-hours veterinary visit or if you are lucky it will pass through and you will need one hell of a shovel or plastic bag out in the garden on Boxing Day, plus you've missed your lunch so watch out.

·         Diet - We often get carried away with extra festive treats and unusual foods this time of year, it’s nice to include our dogs and treat them too – but don’t forget that a sudden intake of unusual foods, or too much of anything is likely to cause diarrhoea and/or vomiting, so watch out for how much and what exactly your dog is being offered - keep an eye on any guests sneaking in the treats too, or Fido will end up with an upset tummy and it could be a messy and uncomfortable Christmas!

·         Chocolate is a definite NO! It contains a chemical called Theobromine which is actually poisonous to dogs and even just a small amount can be lethal for some. Chocolate poisoning can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, seizures and death. If you want to treat your dog – buy treats designed for dogs, our rescue dogs loves to chew on a carrot or apple, keep them safe and keep them healthy. If you suspect chocolate poisoning – contact a vet immediately.

·         Sweetcorn isn’t digested and corn on the cob is very dangerous, cobs can easily cause an obstruction which will require surgery to remove if it doesn’t kill your dog. If you have corn on the cob-dispose of the cobs where your dog can’t reach and never ever feed to your dog.

·         Bones - you may have more cooked meats around and your dog is sure to have spotted exactly where all his goodies are! Bones can be dangerous, cooked ones becoming brittle and easily breaking into sharp pieces which can choke a dog, don’t give anything you wouldn’t usually.

·         Coffee – alcohol – sweets - yummy for us but NO NO NO for our canine friends. Give your dog a nice Christmas and keep well away.

·         Grapes, raisins and sultanas should not be fed to your dog; these are now known to be toxic to dogs and can cause poisoning. Cases of kidney failure have been documented. Other foods such as liquorice, avocados, onions and some nuts can also cause problems.

A poisons leaflet produced by the British Veterinary Association is available online.

Fun, parties & visitors over the holidays:

Some dogs will enjoy extra people around, for some it can be very stressful-just because you are enjoying 'festive fun' it, doesn't mean your dog must too.

·         If you’re hosting a party/get together: Some dogs will become overexcited or frightened when around unusual noises such as children toys, balloons popping, party bangers, flashing lights etc and intoxicated visitors can also cause a dog to feel uneasy - being grabbed, cuddled and told you’re a good boy over and over by auntie who has hit the sherry early is not a dog's idea of a fun day out, so plan in advance to help keep your best friend relaxed. If your dog is known not to cope well with these types of situations, or you haven't owned your dog long enough to find out, don't take chances, be ready with your dog's 'retreat area':

Make sure your dog(s) has a retreat somewhere familiar where he can go and relax away from all the noise and excitement if he needs too or you need to put him somewhere safe, for example a room upstairs or a dog crate somewhere familiar and quiet. This is especially important if you are likely to become putting it bluntly - drunk and not much use to your dog. Provide some favourite chews, or a stuffed Kong to help keep him occupied, where he likes to be, leave the radio/TV on to help block out some noise, make sure he has the remote control handy too but don’t let him on the karaoke! Exercise in advance to help him settle down whilst you get on enjoying yourself!

·         Try plugging in a DAP diffuser two weeks before your busiest week and keep it plugged in over the Xmas to help relax your dog if needed.

·         Extra guests: Many households will receive extra guests, relatives and often young children, so bear in mind that if your dog isn’t used to the extra attention, noise etc, have a quiet retreat as mentioned above. If your dog is happy mixing (not the cocktails hopefully) - keep an eye out for him becoming too excited and step in if that is the case.

·         Ground Rules: When your family and friends arrive, try laying down some house rules - ask your guests not to overfeed your dog or leave food and alcohol on the floor to help keep party food and drinks out of reach to your dog. But remember, when the booze is flowing, rules are out the window so be prepared in advance, you don't want to end up trying to pull a trapped object out of your dog's throat after he's just found himself a plateful under the chair.

·         Children: Letting off steam at Christmas is all part of the fun, they are off school, enjoying themselves, excited and often charging about. Parents are knackered, stressed out and tired. It's at times like this when dogs can be let down unintentionally and placed in awkward situations.

Please do not leave children and dogs alone attended-always make sure children and dogs are supervised by a competent adult at all times. If it is too much for your dog - just remove your dog from the situation, be vigilant and prevent accidents.

·         Exercise: Try your best to keep your dog’s normal routine as much as possible – getting away from the washing up with the excuse of walking the dog does come in handy!

·         Fireworks are often used over the holiday season, especially on New Year’s Eve, read up on our fireworks & dogs advice.

·         Extra people in and out increases the risk of your dog being let out of your home by mistake; always make sure doors are closed and that you know where your dog is - safely inside. Each year dogs go missing during the holiday period - is your dog wearing a collar and Id tag, is your dog identi-chipped?

·         Pain killers and human drugs for hangovers etc often get left lying around and these packets can be of interest to your dog, if you think your dog has swallowed-contact you vet.

·         Travelling: If you are visiting and taking your dog with you – don’t forget to pack his bag too! Check in advance that your dog is welcome, exercise beforehand to help him settle down when you get there, take a bit of his bedding, water bowl, own food, toy etc.

Record your vet’s number somewhere safe, just in case, be careful and give your dog a big hug from us this Xmas!

Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year to you all and your dogs!

Written by Amanda Dunckley

Copyright © 2011 Endangered Dogs Defence and Rescue Ltd

Summer Information for Dog Owners:

Dogs & Hot Weather - Summer Tips & Safety

I've try to pack as much detail into this article as possible whilst keeping it straightforward and easy to follow to suit both new pet owners as well as more experienced dog owners. In addition I've included some added tips drawn from my own personal experiences.

To print this advice sheet from pdf  please click here

* Temperature Control * Brachycephalic Dogs * Dogs DIE In Hot Vehicles * Travelling * Shade & Ventilation * WATER * Exercising Your Dog * Dog Coats & Conditions * Older Dogs * Overweight Dogs * Muzzled Dogs * Pavements & Paws * Sunburn & Dogs * Canine Dehydration * Overheating & Heatstroke * Signs of Heatstroke * First Aid-Cooling Your Dog * Hot Weather & Dog Bites * Taking A Dogs Temperature *

Summer is here and as the temperature rises it brings with it with some fun, more time spent outdoors, time off work and six weeks of glorious school holidays for many.

Dogs, like people can suffer in the hot weather; following a few simple rules can help keep your dog a lot happier as the temperatures soar.

Understanding how your dog cools down and planning ahead can help stop dangerous situations from escalating and avoid potential disasters.

Every year dogs tragically die in hot vehicles or end up in the vets with sunburn or heatstroke. Enjoy the hot weather and have a great time but please don’t let your dog down this summer.

How Dogs Regulate Their Body Temperature:

Dogs are endothermic; regardless of changes in environmental temperatures, they need to maintain and regulate their own body temperature within a set and safe range. The average healthy dog’s body temperature is 101.5 ºF / 38.6 ºC.

When your dog’s body temperature increases, heat is lost from increased blood flowing at the skin surface. As a dog breathes in, air travels through the nasal passage and is cooled before it reaches the lungs (less so in short nosed dogs).

As the environment becomes warmer and/or more humid a dog will regulate body temperate and cool down using the respiratory system - mainly by panting, unlike us humans who sweat when we’re hot, dogs do not use sweating through their skin as their cooling mechanism.

A Panting Dog Is A Hot Dog: When your dog becomes hot the brain will send signals to different parts of the dog’s body. Your dog’s heart and lungs will work harder as your dog breathes in and out quicker and pants to reduce body temperature via the process of evaporation.

As a dog is panting, the mouth is open and the tongue is hanging out - breathing air in through the nose and out through the mouth, air passes over the tongue, saliva and moisture on the tongue evaporates, the blood in the tongue is cooled and circulated around the body.

Owners of Brachycephalic Dogs:

Short nosed/push in face/flat face/snub nose dogs are technically known as ‘Brachycephalic’ dogs and include breeds such as the British Bulldog, Boxer, French Bulldog, Pekingese, Pug as well as crossbreeds. These dogs need special care in hot weather as they can overheat quickly and this can be fatal.

Brachycephalic dogs have short noses so air being breathed in doesn’t cool so well before it reaches the lungs. They also rely on panting but have to work a lot harder at it as they are not, by design, very efficient. Less air is passing in due to shorter muzzle length and out due to the flat shape of their heads and these types of dogs can quickly become over heated and in trouble.

When a brachycephalic dog is too hot and panting, a foamy phlegm can be produced in the throat making it harder to breath, airways can become inflamed and swollen leading to further difficulties breathing and distress.

If you are the owner of a brachycephalic dog you will need to be extra careful in hot and humid weather and work to help prevent your dog from overheating.

Dogs DIE In Hot Vehicles:

Cars and other vehicles quickly become ovens in warm weather and kill dogs, end of story.

Some people leave their dog in a car whilst they just ‘pop into a shop’ or think it's alright as it's cloudy out - this is a big mistake to make and one which could result in the death of your dog.

Leaving water down in a vehicle or the window open is not going to stop your dog from overheating as dogs regulate their body temperature in a different way to us.

Many dogs still tragically suffer heatstroke or DIE in hot cars every year.

Please never leave a dog in a vehicle on a warm day

or risk killing your dog in a most horrendous way.

Travelling:

If you’re going to be making a road journey, first of all - do you really need to take your dog along?

If so, do you have a good working air conditioning system inside your vehicle? If not, or if your air con broke down, how are you going to keep your dog cool during the journey?

If it’s possible, travelling during the cooler parts of the day is sensible and a lot safer. Much better to travel early morning or later in the evening when it’s cooler. It’s horrible to be stuck in a traffic jam with a dog on a hot day, e.g. a motorway hold up could last for several hours, so if you’re caught in it, with no air con, how are you going to stop your dog from over heating? Much better to plan ahead and avoid these stressful situations in the first place.

If you have air con - cool the vehicle down before you get in it. Always take plenty of water and a bowl, take frequent breaks and park in the shade, during the breaks leave open windows and doors to help reduce the humidity inside the vehicle and keep your dog out of the sun.

Plan ahead to where you are going with your dog - for example if you have planned a family day out during the summer, is your dog allowed access to where you are going? If you are going out, will there be enough shade and water for your dog at all times when you get there?

Shade & Ventilation:

We all spend more time in our gardens and outside during the summer months and it’s easy for your dog to overheat in no time at all. Your dog will need plenty of shade if outside on a warm day.

Remember that the sun moves round throughout the day, so an area can be shaded and then exposed, check out that your dog has constant access to a well shaded area at all times of the day. Shaded areas also need to be well ventilated - with a good circulation of fresh air.

Some dogs will lie out in the sun, if your dog is a sunbather, you will need to prevent this as dogs quickly overheat and can also be burnt by the sun.

Dogs are far better suited to staying indoors when it’s very hot out, in a ventilated cool area.

Drawn blinds/curtains etc can help keep a room cooler by blocking out the powerful sun's rays

An electric fan safely positioned can also help circulate air around; place a bowl of cold water with some ice cubes in it below the fan, this will circulate cooler air around the room.

Lying on a tiled or lino floor covering can also be cooler for your dog.

Conservatories or rooms with a lot of glass can heat up very quickly as the sun moves around during the day, so keep this in mind.

If you are leaving windows/doors open to allow air to circulate more freely do consider that it is safe to do so, for example, that your dog cannot escape through a door, jump or fall out of an open window.

Water – the Life Saver:

Dogs need a constant supply of fresh, cool (not baked in the sun hot) drinking water.

Bowls can get knocked over or played with and spilt. Before you know it your dog is dehydrating and in distress, so make sure there is plenty of water down at all times, both indoors and outside. Don’t force your dog to drink; it will drink when it wants to.

Paddling/shallow pools can help a dog to cool down and many dogs enjoy access to one. Don’t leave a dog with access to a pool unsupervised and make sure the dog can get out of the pool easily.

Rivers, canals and ponds etc can be very attractive to some, but not all, dogs who love to swim, they can also cause drowning and disease so do be careful and supervise your dog at all times when out.

Exercising - Mad dogs and Englishmen - Go out in the midday sun:

Many dogs will still run and play in the sun if allowed to - many just don’t know when to stop, but that’s your job. A dog can suffer from heatstroke due to physical activity on a warm, hot or humid day-this doesn't always have to be in the mid-summer season.

Puppies get can get very excited and play regardless of the heat, some dogs, say a Staffordshire Bull Terrier having a great time with a ball, will keep enthusiastically playing until they become exhausted. As a dog owner it is up to you to supervise and limit physical activity in hot and humid conditions - your dog will thank you for it.

It makes sense to avoid the hottest parts of the day (10am-4pm) and exercise your dog early mornings and later in the evenings when it's naturally cooler. Dogs don’t need to go walks in the midday sun, this really is madness and every year leaves a lot of dogs gasping to breathe and in some cases down at the vets.

Many people want to get and about during the summer, enjoying long walks, cycling, jogging, time off work, it’s nice for us, but often you will see someone walking down the road in the heat of the day with a dog alongside panting away and struggling to keep up. You see, we might find it enjoyable (some of us) but your dog really shouldn’t be out as Noel Coward said; “Mad dogs and Englishmen…”. This is very true and experienced dog owners know to protect their dogs during the hottest parts of the day.

If you do need to take your dog out during the warmer parts of the day, for example you have no garden and your dog must get out to toilet, try to walk in shaded areas avoiding open spaces and hot pavements as much as possible and take water with you.

Coat types and condition:

Black dogs will absorb more heat from the sun. Long haired dogs and dogs with double coats need to be kept well groomed to maintain the coat free of tangles and remove any dead undercoat; this helps the air to circulate which allows the skin to breathe and helps your dog keep cooler.

Some owners like to shave their heavy coated dog’s abdomen and groin as this helps air to flow and disperses heat, dogs enjoy stretching out flat on a cool surface too.

Long coated dogs, e.g. Shih Tzu’s can be trimmed back to help make them more comfortable-speak to a professional groomer about this.

Dogs don’t need to have their hair completely shaved off during the warmer weather as this will expose the skin underneath to the sun and some coat covering helps to provide protection.

The area around your dog’s bottom needs to be kept especially clean during the summer as flies can be attracted here if faeces have been lodged in the coat.

Older Dogs & Overweight Dogs:

Older dogs and dogs which are overweight need extra care in the hot weather as they can overheat a lot quicker and may be less tolerant to the heat and less able to regulate their body temperature.

Be extra vigilant and provide a shady, quiet resting space which is well ventilated with access to fresh cool water.

Dogs with weakened heart and lung function will also need extra help to stay cool in hot weather. If you’re at all concerned have a chat with your vet.

Muzzled Dogs:

Some dogs wear a muzzle when they go out as their owner has decided this is a responsible option for different reasons. Some dogs have to wear a muzzle at all times in a public place due the requirements of a control order or due to legislation.

It may be the case that you as the person responsible for a dog, cannot remove a muzzle to enable a dog to drink or pant easier without committing a criminal offence, if this is the situation, you will need to take extra precautions particularly in hot weather to safeguard the welfare of your dog.

Dogs registered on the Index of Exempted Dogs also have to be muzzled and leashed when travelling inside a vehicle. It can quickly become hot and humid inside a vehicle on a warm day, owners will need to take precautions and be extra careful when transporting a registered dog, as legally they are not allowed to remove the muzzle whilst the vehicle is itself in a public place (eg, on the road).

A muzzle which is of a design (e.g. basket type) that does not prevent your dog from opening its mouth to pant and drink is going to be very important. If a dog is unable to open its mouth to drink water and pant it cannot cool itself down - on a warm day, this could quickly lead to a distressed dog, heatstroke and a veterinary emergency.

Advice on safely muzzling your dog here.

Tarmac & Pavements:

Tarmac surfaces and pavements get hot! We don’t notice with our footwear on, but our dogs do and paws can get burnt.

Walking surfaces can also take a while to cool back down again so bear that in mind if you are taking your dog out in the evening.

Sunburn & Dehydration:

Like us, dogs can also suffer from sunburn. White dogs are particularly prone to sunburn due to a lack of pigmentation in their skin. For example white American Bulldogs and Bull Terriers.

The tips of the ears, bridge of the nose, round the eyes and abdomen are areas which can become burnt easily due to the thin skin and not much hair covering in these sensitive areas.

High factor waterproof sunscreen or complete sunblock can be applied, this will provide protection for vulnerable areas, but prevention is a must and keeping in the shade is a priority.

Use a cream which is fragrance free and suitable for a child as your dog may lick the cream off - especially when applied to his nose. If you’re using a spray be careful around the eyes - spray it onto your fingers first and wipe it on gently. You can now buy sunblock cream especially produced for dogs and pets.

Like us, dog can also become dehydrated due to a lack of fluid intake and loss of saliva when panting. Making sure your dog has constant access to plenty of fresh water will help prevent dehydration.

Signs of dehydration in a dog include a dry mouth, gums and nose, reduced skin elasticity, reduced capillary refill and sunken eyes.

If you suspect your dog is dehydrated offer your dog water in small amounts to prevent vomiting and seek veterinary advice immediately. Your vet will be able to advise further as sometimes dogs become dehydrated due to other causes and a severely dehydrated dog will need hydration therapy which will include not only fluids but electrolytes.

Dehydration can come on quickly and cause damage to internal organs so always seek veterinary advice.

Overheating & Heatstroke:

Dogs can quickly become too hot and reach a point of where their body temperature is too high and they are unable to cool themselves down and keep their body temperature within a SAFE margin.

Heatstroke can be caused by overexposure to sunlight (sunstroke) and hot and humid environments.

Your dog will need appropriate first aid to bring the body temperature down and immediate veterinary attention.

Heatstroke is a medical emergency, it can be fatal and it can also cause damage to internal organs.

Signs of Heatstroke in a dog include:

A raised body temperature, heavy and rapid panting, laboured breathing, weakness, wide eyes, red tongue, rapid pulse, disorientation, exhaustion, diarrhoea, vomiting and distress. A dog can also collapse and go into a coma.

A dog with a body temperature between 104 ºF to 106 ºF is suffering from moderate heatstroke; first aid and veterinary advice is needed straight away.

If the dog’s body temperature is 106 ºF or over the dog is said to have severe heatstroke; first aid and immediate veterinary attention is critical.

Heatstroke and sunstroke can damage internal organs and be fatal.

You need to act quickly and seek veterinary help as this is an emergency for your dog.

How to cool a dog down - First Aid:

The average temperature for a healthy dog is 101.5 ºF or 38.6 ºC.

A healthy dog’s temperature can vary from 100.5 °F to 102.5 °F (38 °C – 39.2 °C).

If a dog has/is overheating and it is unable to bring down its own temperature through panting it is going to need your help. A dog’s body temperature must be cooled down safely.

• Move the dog into the shade if out in the sun, move into a well-ventilated (fresh air flow) area where it is cool.
• Offer cool water but don’t force the dog to drink
• Soak the dog in cool water. Freezing water will cause blood vessels to constrict so use cool water not freezing cold water and wet down your dog’s body all over making sure the water isn’t just running off the coat but is soaking right through to the skin. Turning a hose on a dog may frighten him, so try to quickly soak him instead.
• Standing a dog in a paddling pool or shallow bath of cool water will cool him down, wet him all over, soaking the back of his neck will help cool down the blood going to his brain, but if he can’t stand let him lie and soak him through whilst he lays down.
• If you are out and limited on water, soak cold water on your dog’s belly, in his groin and round his neck, this will help cool the hot blood running through larger blood vessels. Get him out the sun and in the shade. Offer water to drink.
• Short muzzled dogs may have a build-up of foamy type phlegm in their throat-a short squirt of Jiff Lemon to the back of the throat may help cut through this, not nice, but if the dog can’t breathe this is an emergency.
• If possible point an electric fan his way to aid cooling.
• Stay calm and talk to your dog.
• If you have access to the phone ring through to the vet immediately and seek advice on what to do next or send an adult for help.
• Keep the dog soaked in cool water, in the shade with plenty of fresh air and check his rectal temperature every ten minutes if you can, write it down with the time taken and tell your vet.
• Remember not to over cool your dog, you’re trying to bring his rectal temperature back down-stop cooling at 103°F (39.4°C) Check the temperature - you don’t want his body temperature dropping too low-hypothermia.
• When travelling to the vets with an overheated dog, soak towels in cold water and lay or sit your dog on a cold towel. Cool the vehicle down first before you get in it. Allow plenty of air to circulate inside the vehicle on the way to the vets - this aids evaporation. Take cold water with you for your dog to drink.
• If you have managed to cool down your dog, still contact your veterinary clinic for advice.

Remember - Prevention Really Is Better Than Cure.

Hot Weather and Temperament:

People can become irritable when they get too hot, so is it any surprise that dogs may also feel hot and bothered as well?

During the summer, the children are off school for six weeks, there is often increased activity in the home, the sun is out, children are out playing, the temperature is rising, the routine may have changed and some dogs can become overheated, more sensitive and maybe less tolerant than usual... A hot dog can understandably feel quite stressed out.

A recent study which analysed 84 cases of dog bites in children showed that young children are at the greatest risk for dog bites in the summer.

If a dog has been walked through the hottest part of day, allowed to get overexcited and/or overheated in the sun, can’t get cooled down, can’t relax as the garden is full of children all happily playing away and enjoying themselves, it is any surprise really that more people are bitten during hot weather as some dogs are being left with a lot to cope with?

During the summer months please don’t forget your dog's needs. Don’t let him overheat and/or become overexcited playing outside or indoors and always make sure that children and dogs are supervised by a responsible adult at all times.

Keep your dog cool, calm and relaxed during hot weather. Just following a few simple tips can help keep everyone happy in the heat and prevent situations from escalating.

Taking Your Dog’s Temperature:

You will need either a digital or mercury thermometer for rectal use; they can be glass or plastic. A plastic thermometer with a digital readout is easier to use, it needs to be waterproof for cleaning easily afterwards. Keep your dog’s thermometer separate to the one used for humans and don't swap them over or mix them up.

A dog’s temperature is taken by inserting the end of a thermometer into the rectum (anus) if done properly this will give an accurate reading of core body temperature.

You will also need a lubricant, Vaseline or KY jelly will work fine and disinfectant to clean the thermometer after use. Also some tasty treats for your dog.

When taking the temperature it may be easier if you have the dog focused on a treat or a person at the head end (depending on the physical condition of your dog). Another person holding the dog at the front is helpful. Your dog may be standing (in which case be careful he doesn’t sit down on the thermometer) or lying down - especially if he has overheated.

If using a mercury thermometer shake the reading (the level of mercury) down first, apply some lubricant to the end of the thermometer and gently move the tail to one side, don’t pull the tail up in the air. Gently and slowly insert the tip (one inch for a small dog, two to three inches for a large dog) of the thermometer into your dog’s rectum, insert without force. Hold the other end of the thermometer and wait until the digital thermometer bleeps and then remove and read, if using a mercury one, keep in for two minutes, remove, wipe, read and record straight away.
Praise your dog.

Wash and disinfect the thermometer after use and wash your hands afterwards.

Tip: If you take your dog’s temperature when he is well, you’ll be more familiar with what to do should an emergency ever arise.

Normal healthy adult dog temperature range is 100.5 ºF -102.5 ºF / 38.0 ºC - 39.2 ºC
If the temperature is higher or lower contact your vet for advice.

Written by Amanda Dunckley

Click here to view a video showing you how to take your dog's temperature.